Automatic setting and sewing of pocket pieces to garments

ABSTRACT

This disclosure relates to a method and apparatus for automatically setting and sewing a pocket piece to a garment wherein the pocket is loaded into a clamp of a fixture in which the pocket shape is set and a sewing margin established in a shape corresponding to a template connected to the frame carrying the fixture. Pneumatic controls permit the fixture to be operated in a step fashion permitting the pocket piece to be set and subsequently sewn to the garment along the margin. If the fabric and pocket piece are patterned, the pneumatic controls can be operated to permit alignment of the garment with respect to the pocket piece. In addition, a dart guide is provided to prevent flagging at the corners of the pocket.

United States Patent [72] Inventors Robert C. BrandriiT;

Walter F. Chapman, Rockaway, NJ. ['21 Appl. No. 827,865 [22] Filed May 26, 1969 [45] Patented Jan. 5, 1971 [73} Assignee The Singer Company New York, N.Y. a corporation of New Jersey [54] AUTOMATIC SETTING AND SEWING 0F POCKET PIECES T0 GARMENTS 10 Claims, 23 Drawing Figs.

[52] [1.8. Cl ..ll2/l2l.15, 223/38 [511 Int. Cl. D05b 21/00 {50] FieldofSearch ..1l2/121.15, 121.12, 121.1 1, 121.29, 147; 223/38; 2/247 [56] References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,979,872 11/1934 Dixon 223/38 2,453,623 11/1948 Gilbert et al 223/38 Primary Examiner-H. Hampton Hunter Attorneys-Marshall J. Breen, Chester A. Williams, Jr. and

Harold Weinstein ABSTRACT: This disclosure relates to a method and apparatus for automatically setting and sewing a pocket piece to a garment wherein the pocket is loaded into a clamp of a fixture in which the pocket shape is set and a sewing margin established in a shape corresponding to a template connected to the frame carrying the fixture. Pneumatic controls permit the fixture to be operated in a step fashion permitting the pocket piece to be set and subsequently sewn to the garment along the margin. If the fabric and pocket piece are patterned, the pneumatic controls can be operated to permit alignment of the garment with respect to the pocket piece. In addition, a

dart guide is provided to prevent flagging at the corners of the pocket.

PATENTEU JAN 5 I971 sum 1 OF 6 INVENTOR. Robert C. Brcmdriff, B Walter F. Chapman JSMM,

TTORNEY WITNESS:

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PATENTEUJAN 5:911 3552,3236

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Robert C. Bmndriff,

BY Walter F. Chapman ARN WITNESS:

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AUTOMATIC SETTING AND SEWING OF POCKET PIECES TO GARMENTS BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Heretofore, skilled operators were required to sew pockets onto garments. Attempts at automating this process have been numerous but the mechanisms have had certain shortcomings. For example, they might require auxiliary equipment such as pressers and creasers. If the pocket were to be formed in a clamp having a shaping member, the complete removal of the shaping member from the pocket piece who required, which might disturb the desired pocket shape or the sewing margin.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION In accordance with the present invention, a mechanism and method has been provided whereby a pocket piece is sewn to a garment. A fixture carrying the pocket piece is connected to a motor-driven template frame and positioned adjacent the sewing machine to follow a path prescribed by the template. The pocket piece is placed in a clamp of the fixture above the garment. The clamp has an upper setting plate and a lower setting plate. The upper setting plate defines the marginal edge for sewing the pocket piece to the garment. The lower setting plate is split and movable between an expanded position extending outwardly of the marginal edge and a retracted position lying inwardly thereof. A bracket is connected to the fixture and carries retractable edge-holding means therein. The folding means are actuated to fold the edges of the pocket piece under the expanded lower plate so that the clamp can be shifted toward the garment, and the folding means and lower plate retracted prior to sewing the pocket piece to the garment along the marginal edge.

It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide improved setting and sewing of pocket pieces to garments which avoids the prior art disadvantages; which is automatic in operation; which is simple, economical and reliable; which includes a dart guide to avoid flagging at the pocket corners; which permits the pocket piece to be set in a clamp capable of establishing a sewing margin therein; which includes window means to permit alignment of the garment to the pocket piece to match the respective patterns thereof; which uses a stepped pneumatic control to facilitate operation thereof; and, which uses a foldable lower setting plate capable of assuming an expanded position during'pocket setting and a retracted position thereafter.

Other objects and advantages will be apparent from the following description of the invention and the novel features will be particularly pointed out hereinafter in the claims.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS This invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawings in which:

FIG. 1 is a front elevational view partly broken away of an automatic assembly including the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a top plan view of FIG. I;

FIG. 3 is a top plan view, partly in section, of a fixture of the present invention including a bracket and clamp which will interact to set the pocket in folded position therein;

FIG. 4 is a top plan view of the lower setting plate in the retracted position with the expanded position shown in phantom:

FIG. 5 is a bottom plan view of the lower setting plate in expanded position;

FIG. 6 is a view, partly in section, taken along line 6-6 of FIG. 5;

FIG. 7 is a top plan view of the portion of the fixture having the bracket and clamp with the pocket piece set in the clamp;

FIG. 8 is a schematic of the pneumatic controls of the present invention in which those controlling with the fixture have been identified;

FIGS. 9 through are schematic representations of the steps of operation showing the fixture in sectional view as follows: FIG. 9 shows the fixture in raised position with the LII bracket and open clamp nonaligned; FIG. 10 shows the pocket piece loaded in the clamp; FIG. 11 shows the clamp closed and in alignment with the bracket, FIG. 12 shows the edge folder operative to set the pocket about the lower setting plate of the clamp; FIG. 13 shows the fixture placed upon the fabric resting on the work-supporting surface; FIG. 14 shows the edge folder retracted; FIG. 15 shows the lower setting plate retracted;

FIG. 16 shows the fixture in a position similar to that of FIG. 12 but slightly lower to permit alignment of the pattern; FIG. 16a indicates a stripped pattern of the pocket piece and garment in misalignment; and FIG. [6b shows the garment slightly moved to align the pattern to permit subsequent positioning of the fixture upon the garment as shown in FIGS. 13, 14 and 15;

FIG. 17 is a top plan view of the clamp showing the right and left dart guides;

FIG. 18 is a partial top plan view of the right dart guide and the actuating pin urging it in straight sewing position;

FIG. 19 is a partial top plan view of the left dart guide in straight sewing position; v FIG. 20 is a top plan view of the front dart guide and actuating pin urging said guide in inclined sewing position; and

FIG. 21 is a schematic representation of the stitch pattern indicating the start and stop position thereof.

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION In the illustrated embodiment of the invention the novel setting and sewing device, designated generally as 30, is shown in FIGS. 1 and 2. The device 30 is mounted on a frame 32, one side of which carries a drive mechanism (not shown) represented by a drive pinion 34, and the other side having a sewing machine assembly 36 mounted thereon. The drive pinion 34 drives a template 38 which is connected to a driven frame 40 movable in the XY planes and to which is pivotally connected at 41 on the sewing machine side thereof a fixture 42, which fixture will transcribe a pattern corresponding to that of the template 38 upon operation of the drive pinion 34.

Suitable biasing means, such as a magnetic force will hold the drive pinion 34 to the template 38 to permit the pinion to engage and drive the template 38 in the prescribed path thereof.

The sewing machine assembly 36 includes a needle positioner 44 and an underbed trimmer 46. The needle positioner 44 and the underbed trimmer 46 are each of the type shown in US. Pat. Nos. 3,400,677 and 2,938,477, respectively, with the modifications necessary to perform the operative functions of the present assembly.

Operator actuated controls illustrated in FIGS. 1 and 2 are mounted atop the frame 32 as at 48a, 48 b and 480, with addiwill act, separately or in combination, to operate the device as more fully set forth hereinafter.

' The fixture 42 as shown in FIGS. 2 and 3 has a main arm 52, one end being pivoted at 41 responsive to actuation of an air cylinder 54 to shift the fixture toward or away from the support surface 56 of the sewing assembly 36. The other end of the main arm 52 carries a bracket 58 pivotally connected by spaced straps 60 to pivot about a fixed shaft 62 carried by the arm 52. A transverse strap 64 carries a pneumatic sensor 66 adjacent to an actuating arm 68, the angular position of which is controlled by air cylinder 70 as limited by rearwardly mounted air cylinders 72 and 74. A pneumatic sensor 76 is closed in superposition to the actuating arm 68 adjacent air cylinder 72.

Carried along the inner periphery of bracket 58 in a recess 77 thereof, is an edge folder mechanism 78 having side folders 80 and bottom folder 82 pneumatically actuated by air cylinders 84 and 86, with a sensor 88 mounted adjacent air cylinder 84. Each cylinder 84 and 86 is connected through a lever-90to the bottom folder 82, and by pivotal link-s92 to the side folders 80, as best seen in the'broken away portion of'FlG'. 3:

When the air cylinders 84 and 86 are in extended position, the.

direction of main arm 52 and the sidefolder will be pivoted toward each other. A pneumatic sensor 94 is placed on the opposite side of sensing block 96 from that of sensor 88 whereby it will sense the extended position of block 96 while sensor 88 will sense the retracted position thereof.

A clamp assembly 97 illustrated in FIGS. 3 and 7 has an upper setting plate 98' and a lower setting plate 100 each mounted within the confines of bracket 58. The upper setting plate has a pair of pivotal arms 102, one of which is connected to be crank actuated-by an air cylinder 104 mounted upon the frame 106, which frame also carries air cylinders 70, 74 and 76. The lower setting plate 100 isslide connected to a clear plastic plate 108 having fixed straps 110 pivotally mounted to shaft 162 and' biased by springs 112 in the direction of the upper setting plate. The forward end of the plastic plate 108- extends under the transverse strap 64 which will engage the same upon actuation of air cylinder 70.

The lower setting plate 100 as shown in FIGS. 3 and 4 is longitudinally split to form a pair-of lower plates 114 each of which is pin connectedas shown in FIGS. and 6 to a slide pin 116, disposed in inclined recesses 119 formed to trap the pin by its open bottom circular shape. The recess 119 are'set in the plate 108 at an angle of approximately 45 to the longitudinal split in the lower setting plate 100, The lower setting plate 100 is slidable between an expanded position shown'in FIG. Sand a retracted position shown in full'line in FIG. 4, with the expanded position shown in phantom. The slide movement is responsive to an air cylinder 118 actuating a crank'arm 120 to turn a crank plate 122 about a pivot 124 connecting the plate 122 to the plastic plate 108 which also carries the air cylinder 118. Each slide pin 116*has a rod 126 shown best in FIG. 6, affixed therein to extend through a slot 128 formed above the recess 119topermit the rodto extend into slots 130 of the crank plate l22'whereby on actuation of the air cylinder I18 the'rods 126 will be'shifted to cause the slide pin 116 and connected plate. portions 114 to shift accordingly to cause the lower setting plate 100 to be retracted or expanded.

The lower setting plate 100 has a cover plate I32 disposed thereover which is fixedly connected to the plastic plate 108' so as to be slightly spaced from the lower setting plate 100 to permit the operator to place the pocket piece therebetween.

The undcrbed' trimmer 46 has two air cylinders one. of which is shown in FIG. 1 as air cylinder 134. FIG. 2 shows air cylinder 136, operative to position the fixture 42-toward or away from the sewing machine assembly 36. The following pneumatic valves are also represented, with the operation thereof to be described in connection with the pneumatic schematic of FIG. 8; valve 138, valve 140, and carried on the underside of mounting bracket 142 are valves 144, 146, 148, I50 and 152 (not shown except in FIG. 8).

Turning now to FIG. 8 the pneumatic sequence of operation will now be described. If the device 30 had previously been operated the button actuated reset fixture 50b will be manually operated to switch valve 152 so as to simultaneously supply air to sensor 66, actuate air cylinder 72 to engage actuating arms 68 to urge the same into a folding level stop, supply air to valves 148 and to cut the air supply to sensor 94. The fixture 42 as shown in FIG. 9 will be positioned a predetermined distance, designated generally as X,, from the support surface 56 upon which has been placed the garment 156 to lie beneath the fixture 42. The clamp assembly 97 is an open position with the lower setting plate 100 thereof extended so that the sides thereof are disposed outwardly of the outer edge of the upper setting plate 98, which edge defines the margin about which the pocket piece 162 will be sewn to the garment 15.6 by the sewing machine. Thefolding device 78 is housediin retracted-positionwith theside folders 80sliown disposediwithin the recess 77 'with'the folding hp 158 in abut ment-witha frictional resilient pad 160. v

The operator will manually load thepocket 'piece162 into the opened clamp :assembly 97 between thelower setting plate 100 and the cover member' thereof 132 was to assureits proper positioningasshown in FIG." 10. The fixture 42 remains abovetlie support surface by the distanceXr.

The button=actuated 'valve c is'operated to close. the fixtureand as shown in FlG."8-will supply air to valve. 14410 simultaneously supplyiair to.s'ensor-76',:sensor 88, a'pneumatic switch116'2', to one siiie oftlie:aircylinder while removing it from the other side thereof so as to urgethefixture down. and to. one side of air cylinder 54 to urge the-main arm 52 to pivot down to place the fixture 42 to'closer to the support surface 56and spacetherefrom by a-distance X, as shown in FIG. 11 The supply of air to valve l44'also acts to remove air from the other side of the air cylinder 54,.and removes air from thefixture reset valve 50b. The actuation of air. cylinder 70 moves the bracket 58downwardly to engage the plasticplate 108-and mechanically close thesensor66.

Following the. pneumatic Iinesshown in FIG.'8, the act of closing sensor 66-willvoperate'to switch valv'e 15050 as to. remove air. from one side of both air cylinders 84 and .86, which were in the extended position,.and to supplyair to the other side thereof so as to place air cylinders 84and86 inthe: retracted position. Retracting; the air cylinder 5 cylinders-84 and 86 operateszthe' folder device 78asillustrated in FIG. 12 whereby thelips 158 will1 engage and set. the edges of the pocket piece 162 underneath the expanded lower setting plate 100'. Ret'racting the. air cylinder 84 moves the sensor block 96- into position to close the sensor 88. FIG; 8 shows that the closing of sensor 88-will operate. to

" switch valve: 152 to 'removeair from sensor 66, air cylinder 72,.

and valves 148'and 146; The switching of valve l52'will supply: air to sensor 94. Assuming that'the pocket piece 162 and-the garment 156-are not patterned and. therefore do not require alignment the act of removing air from air cylinder 72" will" remove the folding level stop of actuator arm 68 and permit:

air cylinder 70 to. urge the. bracket to assume the position;

shown in FIG. 13 so as to come to rest upon the garment 156 and support surface 56, bringing with it the remainderof the fixture 42. The pads 160 provide a light frictional engagement whereby movement of the fixture 42mm be accompanied by a' like movement of the garment 156. Upon actuation of the arm 68 to bring the fixture 42 into contact with-the support surface.

56 the sensor76 will beclosed.

The closing of sensor 76 as illustrated in FIG. 8 supplies signal air to valve 150' to switch the same and remove-air form from one end of air cylinders 84 and 86, while supplying air to the other end thereof. This acts to move the air cylinders 84 and 86 from aretracted position to an extended position wherein the folding device 78 will be retracted as shownin FIG. 14. Also, extending air cylinder 84 will move'the sensor block 96 into locking contact with sensor 94 as shown in FIG.

signal air to valve 148 to switch the same and remove air from 50c and remove air from one side of air cylinder1l8 and? supply air to the other side thereof so as to change thelowerl setting plate from an extended position to a retracted.

position, as shown in FIG. 15. Valve 148 will also supply air to" J air cylinder 104' to close the upper setting plate 98, thoughthis could bedone at any time after the pocket has been loaded in the clamping assembly 97..

In the event that a pattern is to be matched between the mits the operator to move the garment from a misaligned posi tion represented by FIG- 16b. The alignment is facilitated byf The act of closing sensor 94 will, as shown in FIG. 8, supply."

6. The combination claimed in claim including:

a. a spring means connected to one of the dart guides to bias it toward the adjacent inclined edge, and

b. a spring means connected to the other dart guide means to bias it away from the adjacent inclined edge.

7. The combination claimed in claim 4 wherein:

a. the lower setting plate is split longitudinally to form two overlapping'segments;

b. a pair of slide pins slidably mounted in the clamp and one of which is connected to each of the plate segments; and

c. each of the slide pins is shiftable responsive to the crank member to slide along an inclined line with respect to the jacent the sewing machine in a path prescribed by the template comprising:

a. a clamp carried at the free end of the fixture to be shifted toward and away from the garment: b. an upper setting plate on the clamp defining a marginal edge for sewing the pocket piece to the garment; c. the upper setting plate has inwardly inclined edges ad- 8 jacent the marginal edgeof initial and final sewing;

d. a dart guide yieldably mounted on-the upper plate adjacent each of the inclined edges;

e. ,a lower setting plate on the clamp to interact with the upper setting plate to receive the pocket therebetween;

f. the lower setting plate having anexpanded position extending outwardly of the marginal edge and a retracted position lying inwardly'ofthe marginal edge;

g. a bracket connected to .the fixture and spaced a predetermined distance outwardly of the upper and lower setting plates; I I

h. edge-folding means retractably mounted in the bracket selectively-to fold the edgesof the pocket piece under'the expanded lower plate wherebythc clamp can be shifted toward the garment, and the folding means and lower plate retracted prior to sewing the pocket piece-to the garment along the marginal edge; and

i. an actuator pin fixedly mounted to the sewing machine to contact the dart guide and urge the same toward or away from the inclined edge to prevent flagging of the pocket piece during the dart sewing operation.

10. The combination claimed in claim 9 including: 7

a. a springmeans connected to one of the dart guides to bias it toward'the adjacent inclined edge; and

b. a spring means connected to the other dart guide means to bias it away from the adjacent inclined edge.

having the side folders 80 and bottom folder 82 made of clear plastic material. Once this has been done the operator will manually push the actuating button for the fixture closed valve 500 the operation of which acts to switch valve 146 to remove air from air cylinder 74 to permit the actuating arm 68 to completely descend thus causing the fixture 42 to come to a position shown in FIG. 13 wherein it will be in contact with the garment 156 and the support surface 56. Thereafter, the steps shown in FIG. 14 and 15 will be accomplished to place the pocket piece in ready-to-sew position in which the template driven frame 40 will control the motion of the fixture 42 in relation to the sewing machine assembly 36, in a known manner. After sewing has been completed the fixture 42 may be raised so as to remove air from sensor 76 and deactivate air cylinders 54 and 70 and switch valve 144. Subsequently, the

cycle can be repeated and the fixture 42 reset.

The sewing'margin of the pocket piece 162 is automatically obtained by the fixture .42, which fixture frictionally clamps. upon the garment 156, then moves under the sewing head 164 of the sewing machine assembly 36. The fixture 42 is driven by the template frame 40 which automatically traces the pattern of the template 38 during the sewing operation. Accordingly,

the pocket piece 162 will be sewn onto the garment 156 along the marginal edge corresponding to the template pattern as shown in FIG. 21 from an initial start position at 168 in the direction indicated by the arrows along a stitching path 170 represented by the dashed lines to a stop position 172. The needle positioner 44 will automatically signal the actuation of the underbed trimmer to effect trimming of the thread at the stop position 172 thereafter the template. returns to the start position and the fixture 42 is also moved to an unloading position wherein the finished pocket is removed from the clamp assembly 97, and the next pocket piece may be loaded therein.

There are darts 174 and 176 sewn in the starting and stopping corners, respectively, of the pocket. To prevent flagging of the corners of the pocket piece 162 during the dart sewing operation, a pair of dart guides are pivotally connected adjacent the inclined corners of the upper setting plate 98 as represented in FIG. 17 as a left dart guide 178 and a right dart guide 180. Dart guide actuating pins 182 are shown in FIG. 1 as being mounted to the head 164 of the sewing machine 166. There are two pins 182, one to actuate'the right dart guide 180, one to actuate the left dart guide 178. As shown in FIGS. 17, 18, 19 and thepins 182 are spaced on either side of the needle 184. g

The right dart guide 180 is spring biased against the inclined right edge of the upper setting plate, while the left dart guide 178 is spring biased away from the inclined right upper edge thereof in alignment with the vertical edge. Each of the dart guides 178 and 180 has an upturned edge 186 on the inner side thereof and a downturned edge 188 on the outer edge thereof. The pin 182 engages the upturned edge 186, while the downturned edge engages the pocket. piece 162 to prevent flagging during the sewing of the darts 174 and 176.

The sewing will start at 168, as illustrated in FIG. 17, and will:proceed along the marginal incline with the guide 180 in its normal biased position. However, upon reaching the vertical leg of the dart 174 the pin 182 will engage the upturned edge 186 to urge the right dart guide 180 outwardly to likewise assume a vertical position whereby the downturned edge 188 will engage the corner of the pocket piece 162 and prevent flagging thereof during the completion of the dart 174. The sewing will continue around the marginal edge of the upper setting plate 98 as shown in FIG. 19 to complete the vertical leg of the dart 176. On reaching the inclined portion of dart 176 the opposite pin 182 will engage the upturned edge 186 of the left dart guide 178 and urge the same against the inclined edge of the upper setting plate 98 to permit the sewing to be completed along the downwardly extending inclined portion ofthe dart 176 until the stopping point 172 is reached.

It will be understood that various changes in the details, materials, arrangements of parts and operating conditions which have been herein described and illustrated in order to explain the nature of the invention may be made by those skilled in the art within the principles and scope of the invention.

We claim:

1. A method of automatically setting and sewing a pocket piece to a garment lying flat on a work support comprising the steps of:

a. placing the pocket piece in a clamp raised above the garment and having a split expandable and retractable margin forming plate in expanded position;

b. folding the edges of the pocket piece downwardly about the expanded margin forming plate by a retractable folding means;

c. lowering the folded pocket piece within the clamp closely adjacent and substantially parallel to the garment for the purpose of aligning the pattern between said pocket piece and said garment;

d. placing the folded pocket piece within the clamp upon the garment with the folded edges adjacent said garment;

e. retracting the folding means;

f. establishing a sewing margin in said clamp by retracting the margin forming plate; and

g. sewing the pocket piece to the garment along the sewing margin thereof.

2. The method claimed in claim 1 wherein the retractable folding means includes a window means for the additional step of viewing the workpiece through the window means to assist in aligning the patterns between said pocket piece and said garment.

3. The method claimed in claim 1 wherein a pair of darts are sewn in the pocket piece and garment at the first and last corners thereof including the step of guiding the pocket piece at each of the darts by a yieldable guide biased in one of two positions to prevent flapping of the pocket piece while the dart is being sewn.

4. In a device for automatically setting and sewing a pocket piece to a garment, a motor driven template frame, a sewing machine, a fixture connected to be driven by the frame adjacent the sewing machine in a path prescribed by the template comprising:

' a. a clamp carried at the free end of the fixture to be shifted toward and away from the garment:

b. an upper setting plate on the clamp defining a marginal edge for sewing the pocket piece to the garment;

c.'a split lower setting plate on the clamp to interact with the upper setting plate to receive the pocket therebetween;

d. the split lower setting plate having an expanded position extending outwardly of the marginal edge and a retracted position lying inwardly of the marginaledge;

e. slide pins connected to the lower setting plate;

f. a crank member mounted on the clamp to engage the slide pins;

g. a pneumatic actuator connected to the crank member to effect a cranking motion therewith and selectively to shift the slide pins whereby the lower setting plate will be urged into an expanded or retracted position;

h. a bracket connected to the fixture and spaced a predetermined distance outwardly of the upper and lower setting plates; and

. edge folding means retractably mounted in the bracket selectively to fold the edges of the pocket piece under the expanded lower plate whereby the clamp can be shifted toward the garment, and the folding means and lower plate are retracted prior to sewing the pocket piece to the garment along the marginal edge.

5. The combination claimed in claim 4 wherein:

a. the upper setting plate has inwardly inclined edges adjacent the marginal edge of initial and final sewing and b. a dart guide is yieldably mounted on the upper plate adjacent each of the inclined edges,

c. an actuator pin fixedly mounted to the sewing machine to contact the dart guide and urge the same toward or away from the inclined edge to prevent flagging of the pocket piece during the dart sewing operation.

Po-ww UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE CERTIFICATE OF CORRECTION Patent: No. 3,552,336 Dated ry 5, 1971 Inventor) Robert C. Brandriff and Walter F. Chapman It is certified that error appears in the above-identified patent and that said Letters Patent are hereby corrected as shown below:

Column 4, line 74, after "misaligned" insert --position represented by Fig. 16a to a matched and aligned-- Signed and sealed this 1L .th day of September 1 971 (SEAL) Attest:

ROBERT GOTTSCHALK EDWARD M.FLE'I'GHER,JR.

Actlng Commlssloner of Patent Attesting Officer 

1. A method of automatically setting and sewing a pocket piece to a garment lying flat on a work support comprising the steps of: a. placing the pocket piece in a clamp raised above the garment and having a split expandable and retractable margin forming plate in expanded position; b. folding the edges of the pocket piece downwardly about the expanded margin forming plate by a retractable folding means; c. lowering the folded pocket piece within the clamp closely adjacent and substantially parallel to the garment for the purpose of aligning the pattern between said pocket piece and said garment; d. placing the folded pocket piece within the clamp upon the garment with the folded edges adjacent said garment; e. retracting the folding means; f. establishing a sewing margin in said clamp by retracting the margin forming plate; and g. sewing the pocket piece to the garment along the sewing margin thereof.
 2. The method claimed in claim 1 wherein the retractable folding means includes a window means for the additional step of viewing the workpiece through the window means to assist in aligning the patterns between said pocket piece and said garment.
 3. The method claimed in claim 1 wherein a pair of darts are sewn in the pocket piece and garment at the first and last corners thereof including the step of guiding the pocket piece at each of the darts by a yieldable guide biased in one of two positions to prevent flapPing of the pocket piece while the dart is being sewn.
 4. In a device for automatically setting and sewing a pocket piece to a garment, a motor driven template frame, a sewing machine, a fixture connected to be driven by the frame adjacent the sewing machine in a path prescribed by the template comprising: a. a clamp carried at the free end of the fixture to be shifted toward and away from the garment: b. an upper setting plate on the clamp defining a marginal edge for sewing the pocket piece to the garment; c. a split lower setting plate on the clamp to interact with the upper setting plate to receive the pocket therebetween; d. the split lower setting plate having an expanded position extending outwardly of the marginal edge and a retracted position lying inwardly of the marginal edge; e. slide pins connected to the lower setting plate; f. a crank member mounted on the clamp to engage the slide pins; g. a pneumatic actuator connected to the crank member to effect a cranking motion therewith and selectively to shift the slide pins whereby the lower setting plate will be urged into an expanded or retracted position; h. a bracket connected to the fixture and spaced a predetermined distance outwardly of the upper and lower setting plates; and i. edge folding means retractably mounted in the bracket selectively to fold the edges of the pocket piece under the expanded lower plate whereby the clamp can be shifted toward the garment, and the folding means and lower plate are retracted prior to sewing the pocket piece to the garment along the marginal edge.
 5. The combination claimed in claim 4 wherein: a. the upper setting plate has inwardly inclined edges adjacent the marginal edge of initial and final sewing and b. a dart guide is yieldably mounted on the upper plate adjacent each of the inclined edges, c. an actuator pin fixedly mounted to the sewing machine to contact the dart guide and urge the same toward or away from the inclined edge to prevent flagging of the pocket piece during the dart sewing operation.
 6. The combination claimed in claim 5 including: a. a spring means connected to one of the dart guides to bias it toward the adjacent inclined edge, and b. a spring means connected to the other dart guide means to bias it away from the adjacent inclined edge.
 7. The combination claimed in claim 4 wherein: a. the lower setting plate is split longitudinally to form two overlapping segments; b. a pair of slide pins slidably mounted in the clamp and one of which is connected to each of the plate segments; and c. each of the slide pins is shiftable responsive to the crank member to slide along an inclined line with respect to the longitudinal split.
 8. The combination claimed in claim 7 wherein: a. said split in the lower setting plate extends centrally longitudinally thereof; and b. the slide pins are slideably disposed in the clamp each to slide along an oppositely inclined line forming an angle of 45* with respect to the longitudinal split.
 9. In a device for automatically setting and sewing a pocket piece to a garment, a motor driven template frame, a sewing machine, a fixture connected to be driven by the frame adjacent the sewing machine in a path prescribed by the template comprising: a. a clamp carried at the free end of the fixture to be shifted toward and away from the garment: b. an upper setting plate on the clamp defining a marginal edge for sewing the pocket piece to the garment; c. the upper setting plate has inwardly inclined edges adjacent the marginal edge of initial and final sewing; d. a dart guide yieldably mounted on the upper plate adjacent each of the inclined edges; e. a lower setting plate on the clamp to interact with the upper setting plate to receive the pocket therebetween; f. the lower setting plate having an expanded position extending outwardly of the marginal edge and a retracted position lying inwardly Of the marginal edge; g. a bracket connected to the fixture and spaced a predetermined distance outwardly of the upper and lower setting plates; h. edge-folding means retractably mounted in the bracket selectively to fold the edges of the pocket piece under the expanded lower plate whereby the clamp can be shifted toward the garment, and the folding means and lower plate retracted prior to sewing the pocket piece to the garment along the marginal edge; and i. an actuator pin fixedly mounted to the sewing machine to contact the dart guide and urge the same toward or away from the inclined edge to prevent flagging of the pocket piece during the dart sewing operation.
 10. The combination claimed in claim 9 including: a. a spring means connected to one of the dart guides to bias it toward the adjacent inclined edge; and b. a spring means connected to the other dart guide means to bias it away from the adjacent inclined edge. 